Vegetable Pâté with Walnut and Garlic (Pkhali)
The power of food—to transcend boundaries, both geographical and cultural, and unify—has been the main idea behind Chesnok. By focusing on the recipes that have allowed my own family to bond through the years, I have created a space, a virtual communal table if you will, where I too can forge a connection with others in my community and around the globe. This week marks exactly one year since I’ve started to share a little of my life and my family’s food heritage with you all and I’ve been rewarded with a warm and welcoming embrace. To know that others believe in me has gone, and will continue to go, an incredibly long way towards this passion project of mine.
Before I go on though, there are a few people without whom Chesnok would’ve never gotten off the ground. It was definitely a slow start in the beginning, so thank you Eric Hurt for, aside from your encouragement and insight, the gentle prodding forward I so often needed. Kelsey Petrie for being my sounding board and second set of eyes on, basically, every aspect of this website. Vu Nyugen for doing such a meticulous and skilled job in creating the Chesnok logo—one that was inspired by the Georgian script itself. Molly Reeder for your calming wisdom and guidance and that unforgettable kitchen drawing of me. Lastly, my mother for being my ultimate inspiration and resource—without your courage to start a new life in America, I wouldn’t have anything to write about or, more importantly, recipes to share.
I can’t forget Terra Glick, Keith Freeman, Annie Ungrady, Kerim Aksoy, Rob Douglas, Lee Eschenroeder, Kristen Finn, Sara Adduci, Phyllis Hunter, Nina Promisel, Wayne Dell, Toma in Tbilisi, of course all my wonderful aunties in Rhode Island and the rest of my family in Moscow and across the globe. I could go on and on, but there are too many more to name. Thank you to everyone who reads and continues to support this passion project of mine!
To thank you in another way, I share with you this crowd-winning recipe—Georgian pkhali. Although they don’t seem the most celebratory, these bright, savory vegetable spreads are a must for any Georgian occasion with a good table: and we’re celebrating an anniversary together, remember? The elusive flavors of fenugreek, walnuts, and cilantro play like a song you can't get out of your head, so don't be surprised when your guests, too, start singing its praises. Aside from being an eye-pleasing, delectable appetizer, pkhali, slathered on bread, makes the perfect snack.
Pkhali - Georgian Vegetable Pâté with Walnut and Garlic
A kind of vegetable spread or pâté, pkhali can be made from a number of cooked greens and vegetables (spinach, beets, green beans, cabbage, or eggplant) that is then mixed with a dressing of ground walnuts, cilantro, garlic, spices, herbs, and sometimes onion. At a good Georgian table, there will be at least two or three different kind of pkhalis, always accompanied, of course, by fresh lavash or bread. They are tasty, too, served with crostini or pita chips. Preparation of these dishes is simple, but they must sit at least 6 to 8 hours ahead for the flavors to meld and the flavor of the garlic to settle properly. They are most commonly garnished with pomegranate seeds. The following two recipes are the better known types of pkhali.
Spinach Pkhali
Makes about 2 cups
2 pounds fresh spinach (or beet greens)
1 ½ cups packed fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems
¾ cup walnuts
3-4 cloves garlic
¼ small onion, minced
1 teaspoon khmeli suneli* (or, alternatively, ¼ teaspoon ground coriander and blue fenugreek respectively), plus more to taste
½ teaspoon Georgian saffron* (dried marigold petals), plus more to taste (omit if you can’t find it)
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper, plus more to taste
1 to 1 ½ tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
pomegranate seeds for garnish
Rinse the spinach thoroughly and discard the stems. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, and blanch spinach until tender and bright green, about 5 minutes.
Drain the spinach and allow to cool. Squeeze out as much liquid as possible.
Roughly chop the spinach and pulse a few times in a food processor, being careful not to over-puree. Alternatively, very finely chop spinach by hand. Set aside into a large bowl.
In the same food processor, process cilantro, walnuts, and garlic until until nuts are finely ground and the rest is finely chopped. Add to the spinach. Add the onion, spices and vinegar to the spinach-walnut mixture and mix until everything is fully incorporated and blended. Taste and season accordingly—you’re looking for a kick of spice and hint of acid. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 to 2 hours and ideally overnight.
To serve, spread the pkhali on a plate and smooth the top. With a fork or knife, make a criss-cross pattern in the top and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds, if available, or with walnut pieces.
Beet Pkhali
Makes about 3 cups
2 lbs red beets, washed and stemmed
2 1/2 cups packed fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems
4-5 cloves garlic
½ cup walnuts, finely chopped
½ medium onion, minced
¼ cup mayonnaise
¼ teaspoon cayenne, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon khmeli suneli* (or, alternatively, ¼ teaspoon ground coriander and blue fenugreek respectively)
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
pomegranate seeds for garnish
Add beets to a large pot filled with water. Bring to a boil, and then allow to simmer until beets are tender, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Drain and cool completely.
Peel the beets and grate medium-fine (the second to smallest grate on a box grater). Squeeze firmly in handfuls to release juices and remove extra moisture. Discard liquid. Set aside into a large bowl.
In a food processor, process the cilantro and garlic until everything is finely chopped and add to the beets. Add the walnuts, onion, mayonnaise, spices, and salt and mix until fully incorporated. Season to taste. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 to 2 hours and ideally overnight.
To serve, spread the pkhali on a plate and smooth the top. With a fork or knife, make a criss-cross pattern in the top and garnish with pomegranate seeds or walnuts.
Note*: Ground blue fenugreek can be purchased in small quantities from stores that sell bulk spices such as The Spice Diva in Charlottesville, Whole Foods, or in Indian, Persian, and Middle Eastern grocery stores. I have found that you could buy this spice, along with quality Georgian saffron and other spices, at karigogo.com as well. If you aren't ambitious enough to make it yourself, khmeli suneli could be bought at worldspice.com.